Community

Considered attention is given to the collar this season. A scarlet two-piece vinyl set has a jacket
with rounded sleeves and a high exaggerated collar that frames the face and covers the ears.
The jacket's fit takes inspiration from bodybuilders and how the seams of their jackets sit slightly
over their shoulders. A water-repellent button-down mack with a retractable concealed hood and
adjustable cuffs has a grand detachable handkerchief collar.
In her first collection since receiving the New Establishment Menswear Award at the 2023
Fashion Awards, Saunders hones in on the brand's codes and meticulously reworks her
signatures. A gold silk shirt is shown with Saunders' twist denim jeans that have lines that warp
inwards to evoke them being stretched and pulled. The jeans have an adjustable waistband at
the back, a detail that makes them a timeless fixture in a wardrobe. Saunders revamps the
balloon-like Grove trousers from AW23, which feature a pin-hem and extended belt loops that
come out of the trousers. A houndstooth short jacket with a double-ended zip and pocket that
sits directly on the waist is a riff on the one Saunders designed for Usher for the 2023 Met Gala.
Central to Saunders' research is her study of movement, how garments take new shape as they
shift from static to active. A portrait of Richard Avedon dressed in a button-down painstakingly
tucked into his trousers inspires one of Saunders' most exciting pattern developments this
season. A crisp white cotton shirt with concealed buttons has a deep pleat-like fabric
manipulation that makes each line feel alive. A silk vichy taffeta shirt has stunning volume and is
a subversive take on the ubiquitous checkered shirt. The square bib jacket is a standout this
season; it also comes in a shirt variation paired with a baby blue 100% cotton knit trouser with a
dominating waistband over silk leggings.
This season, the LVMH-backed platform Nona Source partners with Saunders, allowing the

brand access to their prestige deadstock fabrics from the most renowned luxury Maisons. With
the continuous objective of building upon the brand's sustainability efforts, she also uses fabrics
from Positive Materials and ISKO.
Having previously worked together during SS20, Saunders reunites with multidisciplinary artist
Troy Montes-Mitchie to collaborate on a T-shirt. As Saunders dives into her investigation of the
mirror, the 2-D to 3-D juxtaposition of Montes-Mitchie's work inspires her. The graphic, slightly
boxy tee has thumb holes, and the shirt's sleeves have an outlined muscular arm.